SES: Horokanai

Note

End of September, from Engaru to Horokanai.

Story

I always hated tunnels. Especially the tunnels of Hokkaido highways. Gone with the bureaucracy that only collects tolls to drink for 90% of the time but still take their precious 10% to pay someone else to maintain the tunnels and roads, are the well maintained tunnels and the roads. These tunnels used to have lighting that emulate a smoother transition from light to darkness when you enter the tunnel, or vice versa. Now that the highways are only maintained by semi-volunteers. And not-so-high ways, too.

We don't have the luxury to keep those transitional lightings no more. But more essential and less noticed aspects are being highly respected. The ventilations. Whoever's been giving these tunnels some extended life has done rather well, I can tell. Or maybe they're just good at vents and not so good at lightings. That happens when the best hands you have are semi-professional.

I don't think I'm good at either ventilations or lightings. Maybe that's why I rarely gets tunnel jobs and when I rarely gets one I turn it down. There's no shame in it, though. I like a world where you try your best and still fail sometimes and most others understand.

That said, I'm totally not about working on roads now. I'm in a state one would call 'off', and I'm going to Horokanai for it. And I'm kind of regretting the decision to go to Horokanai. Maybe I should have just picked somewhere that doesn't command a tunnel-plagued road trip from where I departed.

But, with respect to my mind of reinforced plexiglass, I won't just easily give up halfway. Also, if I remember correctly, there's less than 5 kilometres of tunnels left and that sum of distance is dispersed in more than one tunnel. And I encounter one as I think. I was thinking so I didn't see the sign stating how long this one is or what is this one called. Anyway, sometimes the signs deteriorate beyond recognition, and sometimes there wasn't a sign in the very beginning. I haven't really experienced the 'good old' Hokkaido roads but I don't think I will be happy or close to that state of mind if presented with a tunnel without any additional information.

A spot of light soon expands to light that fills my field of view, and in a rather violent manner. Then yet another tunnel comes in quick succession before my apertures can adjust. Perkele. That's why I hate tunnels and especially tunnels without your modern gradient lighting. Not that I don't hate those with nicely implemented gradient lighting. I hate tunnels and in a very equal manner. Now this second tunnel also ends and a flashbang. Perkele.

That said, the surroundings are obviously getting flatter. While not such a tunnel enthusiast that I can remember their names, I do know that I'm nearing Asahikawa. Not necessarily going to town, but big cities (*) are sort like a landmark when navigating the island. Not the most scientific way but a thought like 'oh, I'm 30 minutes to Asahikawa, so I should be close enough to anything around it' gives me a good peace of mind.

(*: there are people that argue Hokkaido has no big cities. they kind of have a point)

This pre-Asahikawa (from the east), flat but not exactly plain area is the continuum of Kamikawa, Aibetsu and Pippu. Where I am currently at can still be described as 'mountainous'. Kamikawa actually extends within the mountains as well, but most, if not all, human presence has been concentrated to the transition between mountain and the plain. The plain is not really a plain either. I would think of it more as a basin but with only half or less of the sidewalls. Towards the west, in the direction of Aibetsu, Pippu and Asahikawa, flat terrain rolls out like a single-slit diffraction. It's the end of September and some of the crop fields are in full ripe, maybe slightly post full-ripe. Winter always comes sooner than anyone mentally expect in Hokkaido. And I claim that as a Finn. I do feel a bit frustrated by how whoever has been growing those rice - or buckwheat - seems not caring enough and lacking urgency, but I have long decided not to force my sense of urgency onto someone else. Especially when they are probably more professional on whatever matter I am getting frustrated about.

If any decent place that serves food is open on my way, now is a good time to make a stop there. Or lowering the bar even more, any open place would do. That's what tunnels do to you. The energy drain is way harsher than you would expect. Maybe it's true for anything that commands concentration and stamina at the same time, like sports or fighting. The adrenaline kicks in during the process then wears off making the fatigue a heavier punch than usual.

Not that catering options are abundant, though. Clearing the last tunnel and into Aibetsu, the recession is very much visible. Uninhabited houses just remain on both sides of the road. Some of them are apparently - was apparently restaurants, or roadside diners, or drive-ins as they say in Japanese. I'm very much sure some of the collapses have started long ago, way before the recession that came after the war. These are like time capsules, just without the capsuling shell. But I'm not here to reminisce, it's more important to find a place that is open. Very gladly, among all the ruins and to-be ruins of buildings and structures, there is one that looks like a noodle place with a single flag flying at roadside. Of course, I slowed down and steered over.

The storefront looks as battered as it can be. On the walls there remain spots of different shades of red that vaguely resemble the concept of paint. Beside the colours, I see the wall to different extents. I am so convinced that this building itself is an engineering gem in that some of the corners suggest they have been rebuilt using materials and techniques the original builder never thought of or intended. That said, it is very obvious that the place is still alive. Considering that I'm actually nearing central Aibetsu, or more precisely the entrance junction that leads to central Aibetsu from the main road. This is probably the best place around here to run such catering services if you just have to do it here. I seriously doubt if the daily visitors ever reach the grand number of 10.